Haute Couture is here again

The couture show at Christian Dior is always one of the most hotly anticipated collections, and post Galliano is no different. This Spring/Summer12 collection is the most wearable couture collections for a long time, due to its nostalgic nod to the very beginning of Dior.

Following his ill-fated first couture show for Dior, after the departure of Creative Director John Galliano; Bill Gaytten has returned to the past. Showcasing structured pencil skirts, beautiful day dresses and stunning waist cinching organza Bar jackets – all of which could have been straight from the ‘New Look’ of 1947. It was as if Christian Dior, himself, was at the helm.

The idea behind this collection was “It’s meant to be x-ray Dior,” Gaytten said afterward. “All the structure of iconic Dior, thanks to lots of fittings, but all of it see-through.” The ateliers used chiffon and gauze set against leather to prevent the collection becoming too feminine and providing a brief acknowledgment the current trend for fetishism.

X-Rated Dior - image: Getty Images

The luxurious, elegant and sculptured silhouette of early Dior has been toughened up and brought straight into 2012 with my favourite piece of the show – a drop-shouldered, half-sleeved Bar jacket in taupe croc-stamped leather, worn with leather elbow length gloves and patent court shoes. There are no words…

From Christian Dior's spring/summer 2012 couture collection - image: APF

The Bar Jacket from the 1947 Corolle collection

This show was completely gorgeous, but far too understated in terms of couture. Couture is the fantastical, the whimsical, the ridiculous, the impractical and the extraordinary.

It is Galliano – this collection was not.

love sophie xxx